Building Leaf Springs

[SPR]

It looks like I need to build another set of wreching yard leaf springs for the Toyota's hind end. The current set is a hybrid of Mazda and Toyota leafs. I believe the main leaf is 52" and the center pin is about in center. The bob-job that I did on the truck prevents me from running a longer spring. I could get by with a 51" spring.

First, what I would like to do is have the second leaf built with a miliatary wrap to match up with a new Mazda main leaf. Does anyone know where I can get that done?

Secondly, I need to clean up and paint the rest of the leaves and install those plastic anti-friction pads. That means drilling holes in the leafs. Does anyone have exprience drilling leaf springs, if so how would you go about doing it again.

Lastly, I need a source for those anti-friction pads that use a round hole for mounting in the leaf spring. The ones that I find in the wrecking yard mount in an oblong hole.

Thanks in advance for any advice I get.

[Wrench]

Drilling spring steel sucks. I would take it to a machinist.

As far as getting custom springs made, I have no idea. I would probably scour the junkyard and find something real close already.

[White trash]

If you drill a leaf spring it WILL fail guaranteed. I have a rather extensive collection of leaves, bring an assembled pack by and I'll match you up with a replacement set. I have an odd knack for this sorta stuff.

[Roman]

I have an odd knack for this sorta stuff.

Yes he does . . .

[SPR]

Thanks guys for the advice. First thing I need to do is get a second leaf made with a military wrap. Then I will get to the other leafs.

Thanks Trash for the offer. It's probably going to be a month before I start matching up smaller leafs.

[White trash]

Stop running those thin junk mazda mains and you won't have to worry about a military wrap.

I'm running chevy 52" mains, they are 26" ends with a centered pin. I bent one pretty bad when we rolled the truck but it didn't break and the truck still drove out under it's own power.

Something to think about.

[SPR]

Trash, You got me thinking about the those Chevy springs. If you would, please answer the following questions regarding the Chevy springs that you spoke of...

What rig did they come on?

Are they they same width as the stock Toyota springs?

Can you give me a actual length along the curve of the spring (I assume that is how they are measured).

The Mazda springs that I have are about 51.5" long. If I go longer, I will have to relocate my from perch mount. My rear shackle mount is as far back as it can go.

[White trash]

73-87 chevy 1/2 ton trucks and blazers.

The springs are 2 1/2" wide while Toyota is 2 3/8" not that much fo a difference but the bushings on GM springs stick out on each side so they'd have to be cut down or the mounts be opened up.

Actual length is 52"

1/2" of length won't effect anything.

[toyman2]

i have done the spring drilling, and it sucks big and youll go through a lot of bits. i do however disagree that they will fail. drilling on the ends as i presume your planning will have no ill effect. now if you were to drill between the clamp and the end then they are sure to fail. IMO it is never again worth the hassle to drill springs.

[I'm not so bright]

Just us a quality carbide drill bit and good cutting fluid. Spring steel drills easier then stainless. my 2 cents

Screaming Toylet I have a set of stock chevy half ton springs off a 97 that you can have. They have the pads on them!

[SPR]

Thanks for the offer, can you verify the length and width of the springs?

[White trash]

97 chevy are 64" along the arch. 32x32 centered pin. 2 1/2" wide leaves 3" wide at the bushings.

[I'm not so bright]

Trash nailed the specs! Let me know if you want them even if its just for the pads

[SPR]

Thank you very much for the offer, but I have to pass on the springs because they won't fit. Can you tell if the pads use a round tab that mounts them to the spring or an oblong tab?