Poor mans' SYE
Posted: Sat Nov 20, 2010 5:29 pm
Just thought I would share my SYE setup. I have been using this style setup for a while now on my 207 transfer case. Since I am switching to the 231, I set it up a little better:
Remove tail housing assembly by removing 3 mount bolts. Weld a bolt to the end of the output shaft (much easier than the "drill and tap" method if you have access to a small MIG welder, as these shafts are hardened and extremely hard to drill).
Take the slip yoke, knock out the "plug" that is pressed into the end with a hammer and punch. Find a piece of round stock that has a center hole the same diameter as your welded-on bolt, and OD same as the yoke ID. Cut the round stock to desired length (mine was ~1") and weld it inside the yoke. Be sure to test-fit for proper location and U-joint clearance. Also be sure to keep the weld clear of where the nut will contact the round stock.
Install the yoke and nut to secure it. To seal the nut from leaking fluid, I used a copper washer. You can purchase a copper washer kit at Harbor Freight pretty cheap.
Now the shaft is solid-mounted and ready for use. I used a little loctite on the nut to keep it secure.
This setup works fairly well for me, though it would be better if you had an output yoke that fit a double-cardan joint or U-bolt type U-joint connection. My driveshaft is just a single joint at each end with a slip-splined section in between.
It is also a good idea to install a new bushing and seal in the output housing while it is removed.
Remove tail housing assembly by removing 3 mount bolts. Weld a bolt to the end of the output shaft (much easier than the "drill and tap" method if you have access to a small MIG welder, as these shafts are hardened and extremely hard to drill).
Take the slip yoke, knock out the "plug" that is pressed into the end with a hammer and punch. Find a piece of round stock that has a center hole the same diameter as your welded-on bolt, and OD same as the yoke ID. Cut the round stock to desired length (mine was ~1") and weld it inside the yoke. Be sure to test-fit for proper location and U-joint clearance. Also be sure to keep the weld clear of where the nut will contact the round stock.
Install the yoke and nut to secure it. To seal the nut from leaking fluid, I used a copper washer. You can purchase a copper washer kit at Harbor Freight pretty cheap.
Now the shaft is solid-mounted and ready for use. I used a little loctite on the nut to keep it secure.
This setup works fairly well for me, though it would be better if you had an output yoke that fit a double-cardan joint or U-bolt type U-joint connection. My driveshaft is just a single joint at each end with a slip-splined section in between.
It is also a good idea to install a new bushing and seal in the output housing while it is removed.