PEAK PUTTERS

After an exhaustive amount of research, I decided on an HID conversion kit for the WJ.

I wanted bang for the buck so all roads pointed to www.ddmtuning.com. I ordered up one of their 55W 9006 HID kits in 5000K (temp very close to daylight and provides the most usable light). The cost was only $45 so it was about the same as buying a set of Silverstar bulbs. It also has a lifetime warranty and the company has 2 physical locations IN California so no ebay Chinese "customer service" or questionable products. All of the reviews that I had read on the product had been good as well.

The kit was complete and was truly plug and play. Plug the ballast in to the stock harness and plug the bulb into the ballast. . .zip tie the ballast out of the way. . .done.

For those of you that are around HID lights, you know that 55W is a LOT of light. . .but I wanted to test these out for possible use on the race truck in the future. To be honest, I was shocked. The amount of light these bulbs put out compared to the halogens is amazing, but I didn't even have to reaim the lights to keep them out of oncoming traffic's eyes. Because the low beams stay on all of the time in the WJ, I'm considering getting a set for the High Beams as well. Also, I was going to polish the lenses because they are cloudy from years of use, but I kind of think that it isn't necessary quite yet as there is PLENTY of light.

I feel much better about my wife driving around at night with lights that really shine!!

No pics, but y'all will see them soon enough.

PS: if you drive a Japanese POS, you will need a relay harness to run the 55W balasts because your junk has crappy wiring. If you are American or euro, you just buy the kits, plug them in and go down the road.

Have the exact same kit (except mine is High/Low) in my tj and I'm really glad I did it. The amount of light, like you said is rediculous.

I also switched my housings out to E-code IPF's so that they can be aimed better to avoid blinding people. Don't know if that's neccesary on a WJ.

These ones have a screw jack if I need to make it happen. . .

I have a set of those on my jeep as well and they do work great, but the cover broke on one from a rock after about a week. very nice lighting though. I think mine were a knock off set though.

As it turns out, one of mine had a bad ballast, so. . .I'll get to see how this warranty works right off the bat.

So, did they turn out to be AC "Delco" like they imply?

AC was alternating current. . .LOL. I guess many of the cheapo ballasts are DC.

They are embossed with DDM.. .so they are private labled.

I'm a little pissed, but based on the good experience of others, I am giving them a shot at good customer service.. . .we'll see.

My bro's came with a bad ballast. You must file a return, send it in, and they will test it, and send a new one if it tests bad.

Not really impressed with their customer serivce, but the product (when its all working) seems to be great. So far on problems since getting a new ballst.

Also most rigs need new harnesses. I would rather be on the safe side, heard people melting their harnesses on all kinds of rigs, not just Jap rigs.

Pretty much its just a chance. I know a few people that got their kit with a bad ballast. A few people got good kits.

It is my understanding that the HID kits actually consume less power (line amperage) than standard bulbs. Is this not correct? Why would the wires melt?

Wrench wrote:It is my understanding that the HID kits actually consume less power (line amperage) than standard bulbs. Is this not correct? Why would the wires melt?

X2

Maybe the kit/install has a weak ground in harness.

Wrench wrote:It is my understanding that the HID kits actually consume less power (line amperage) than standard bulbs. Is this not correct? Why would the wires melt?

This is correct. A normal 9006 bulb is 60W and the super high powered HIDs are 55W. Something was wrong if wires got melted.

However. . .I guess the latest industry standards indicate that most Japanese cars need a relay harness and euro/American cars do not. Maybe there is a difference in the way they are wired.

Hid's draw less amperage while in use than halogen etc. But they draw lots of amps on startup igniting the gas inside the capsule.

White trash wrote:Hid's draw less amperage while in use than halogen etc. But they draw lots of amps on startup igniting the gas inside the capsule.

x2

Igniting them takes (forgot exactly) but 4x more? or maybe even more than that.

Halogens actually do the same thing. HIDs draw about 7Amps each on startup.. .so do Halogens.

Both of them draw 3 to 5 amps when they are running.

Here's the scope: http://theeshadow.com/files/volvo/hidcomp.html

I'd rather be safe than sorry. I guess I like overkill and safety rather than crossing my fingers hoping I don't catch it on fire.

OldGreen wrote:Halogens actually do the same thing. HIDs draw about 7Amps each on startup.. .so do Halogens.

Both of them draw 3 to 5 amps when they are running.

Here's the scope: http://theeshadow.com/files/volvo/hidcomp.html

Ok so explain again what it is that forces a "japanese POS" to use a relay based system while a US vehicle doesn't need it? Not that I'd run any lights over 55 watts without a relay but that is beside the point.

White trash wrote:

OldGreen wrote:Halogens actually do the same thing. HIDs draw about 7Amps each on startup.. .so do Halogens.

Both of them draw 3 to 5 amps when they are running.

Here's the scope: http://theeshadow.com/files/volvo/hidcomp.html

Ok so explain again what it is that forces a "japanese POS" to use a relay based system while a US vehicle doesn't need it? Not that I'd run any lights over 55 watts without a relay but that is beside the point.

Internet myth? Who knows.

I would bet that many Japanese vehicles have higher quality wiring with higher quality insulation that is not so thick and bulky, which would make them appear to have smaller wires.

I have never heard of anyone wiring them correctly and still melting wires. In fact, I know quite a few people who have installed these on motorcycles with no problems at all.

I've heard of them melting wires, personally we went with a relay harness right off the bat so no experience but I'll take many peoples advice on the forums I researched.

White trash wrote:

OldGreen wrote:Halogens actually do the same thing. HIDs draw about 7Amps each on startup.. .so do Halogens.

Both of them draw 3 to 5 amps when they are running.

Here's the scope: http://theeshadow.com/files/volvo/hidcomp.html

Ok so explain again what it is that forces a "japanese POS" to use a relay based system while a US vehicle doesn't need it? Not that I'd run any lights over 55 watts without a relay but that is beside the point.

I don't know exactly, but even the manufacturers suggest that you use a relay harness on Japanese vehicles. I don't own one currently so it doesn't really apply. I think that if I did, I'd just look at the rating of the OEM lights and act accordingly.

The Jap POS use relays because they need to maintain their high standards for quality. Somewhere they must have learned that it is better/safer to run high amp circuits directly to a relay on the fenderwell instead to a switch in the dash.

I use relays for my accessories because I like hearing them click.