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jeep parts
Posted: Tue Dec 20, 2011 4:10 pm
by toyman2
Ok, i need a list of good places to get jeep parts.
I am in need of a tranny maount for my tf999 and cant seem to find one.
Now that the runner is gone I would really like to get going on this.
Sorry for being kinda jeep dumb
Posted: Tue Dec 20, 2011 4:19 pm
by Grumpy
Jeep =
Oh, that's right, I own a ScoutII

Posted: Tue Dec 20, 2011 4:54 pm
by iaccocca
Very little hlep here, but I wonder if a mount from one of these applications would work...
The TF 999 was used in CJs from 1980-1986 only with the I6 and V8 engine. It was also used in 1984-1990 SJs and J pickups with the 4.2L engine, in the YJ from 1987-1991 with the 2.5L and 4.2L engine, and in the XJ in 1991 with the 2.5L engine. A modern version of the 999 continues to be used in Wrangler YJs and TJs to this day with the I6 engine.
http://www.jeeptech.com/trans/tf999.html
And as far as places to get Jeep parts, it really matters what part you are looking for.
AMC =
All
Motors
Combined still applies.
Re: jeep parts
Posted: Tue Dec 20, 2011 6:52 pm
by mattawajeep
toyman2 wrote:Ok, i need a list of good places to get jeep parts.
I am in need of a tranny maount for my tf999 and cant seem to find one.
Now that the runner is gone I would really like to get going on this.
Sorry for being kinda jeep dumb
You could probably order one meant for a 1997-2001 TJ. They're small and cheap - so if you had to do some welding it would be easy. Of course, it might be best to start with the correct year part as Lee mentioned.
As far as where to order, google is your friend. I'm very unloyal when it comes to buying parts - I go where it's cheapest.
Posted: Tue Dec 20, 2011 8:07 pm
by benw
Posted: Tue Dec 20, 2011 8:52 pm
by toyman2
Ben, I have been wanting to talk to you about your YJ if you still have it.
Most of what you did to that is what i think i want, just smaller tires like 35s. IDK if you have any pics or details on your 60s but id really like to see what you did.
Posted: Tue Dec 20, 2011 10:44 pm
by benw
I don't really have any pics of building the axles. The front is a GM 60 narrowed 6" so it is 63" overall.
The rear is a 60 out of an early 70's F250, it was 63" from the factory. I bored the spindles and put 35 spline Yukon cut-to-fit shafts in it.
I don't think I'd build 60's to run 35s. Some nice 44's would be strong enough and not as heavy.
Posted: Wed Dec 21, 2011 7:17 am
by OldGreen
benw wrote:
I don't think I'd build 60's to run 35s. Some nice 44's would be strong enough and not as heavy.
I agree. My rear 60 was a boat anchor with 35s. I kind of feel like you want at least 38s to justify D60s.
Cim, for 35s, a good set up is a front Wagoneer D44 and a rear Isuzu Rodeo (1996+) D44. Both are six lug and disc brake. 8" Toy rear end works well too. The Rodeo will come from the factory with either 4.10 or 4.30 gears. Change the wheel studs to SAE in the rear, outboard the front springs, gear to match. . .Spring under with 2.5" or 4" lift springs (maybe run what you have?). You could ARB/ARB, ARB/Detroit, ARB/Welded. . .whatever.
Posted: Wed Dec 21, 2011 8:32 am
by benw
I don't think I would bother with the isuzu rear. Just get a rear 44 out of an '87 or newer Grand Wagoneer.
For the front in a CJ, I would get a wide track housing out of a Cherokee Chief or a J-truck and narrow the long side. This will get your perch width down to match the CJ frame and you won't have to outboard the springs.
Another front axle I would seriously consider is an FJ-60 front.
Posted: Wed Dec 21, 2011 8:45 am
by OldGreen
benw wrote:I don't think I would bother with the isuzu rear. Just get a rear 44 out of an '87 or newer Grand Wagoneer.
For the front in a CJ, I would get a wide track housing out of a Cherokee Chief or a J-truck and narrow the long side. This will get your perch width down to match the CJ frame and you won't have to outboard the springs.
Another front axle I would seriously consider is an FJ-60 front.
What's the bother with the Isuzu? It is easier and cheaper to change the wheel studs than it is to regear. . .plus you get disc brakes. I guess it really comes down to what you can find easily. A Scout II rear 44 would work too if you used Ford bearing hubs/rotors on the waggy front to match the 5x5.5 bolt pattern. Could keep your wheels that way too. I kind of guess that you had 6x5.5" Toy wheels stacked up like cord wood though. The FJ axle is a cool thought too.
Agreed on the wide track SJ axle if you have the time/inclination to narrow it. I've always thought that the narrow spring centers on a CJ were an advantage. I can't remember. . .when you narrow it for CJ perches, do you end up being able to use a stock narrow track shaft?
Posted: Wed Dec 21, 2011 9:08 am
by benw
I don't consider 4.10 or 4.30 to be low enough gears, so I guess I didn't think that was an advantage. I think the isuzu 44 uses the big pinion shaft gear set and different bearings than normal, so it is a bit more trouble tracking down the right bearings when you re-gear. People also seem to want more money for isuzu 44s than they are worth because people think they are something special.
If you like buying used wheels/tires then 6x5.5 is the way to go, there are more of them on the market than anything else.
Posted: Wed Dec 21, 2011 9:13 am
by White trash
Fj60 is a decent option but an fj62 is a better option due.to the pinion being rotated up 10* from the fj60. I'd run an fj80 over either of them. Much bigger birfields, stronger housing and a high pinion diff.
For a standard cj I'd go with a set of 44's. Waggy front and whatever rear you find for the best deal. No reason to spend all your time searching for one particular axle instead of putting in some work and wheeling the damned thing.
Posted: Wed Dec 21, 2011 9:40 am
by OldGreen
White trash wrote:For a standard cj I'd go with a set of 44's. Waggy front and whatever rear you find for the best deal. No reason to spend all your time searching for one particular axle instead of putting in some work and wheeling the damned thing.
Solid advice.
Posted: Wed Dec 21, 2011 10:00 am
by iaccocca
...wheeling the damned thing.
Just in time, my favorite quote of the year.
Posted: Wed Dec 21, 2011 11:20 am
by benw
White trash wrote:No reason to spend all your time searching for one particular axle instead of putting in some work and wheeling the damned thing.
Yeah just throw whatever in there. Don't bother taking a few minutes to figure out what would work the best. Its only axles, its not like it impacts anything important like traction, gearing, steering, reliability or anything important.

Posted: Wed Dec 21, 2011 11:31 am
by White trash
benw wrote:White trash wrote:No reason to spend all your time searching for one particular axle instead of putting in some work and wheeling the damned thing.
Yeah just throw whatever in there. Don't bother taking a few minutes to figure out what would work the best. Its only axles, its not like it impacts anything important like traction, gearing, steering, reliability or anything important.

Not what I meant at all. I wouldn't spend all my time looking for a rodeo axle if there is a waggy 44 available that just needs gears and brakes. The reverse is true too, no need to search high and low for your unicorn.

Posted: Wed Dec 21, 2011 12:19 pm
by Wrench
I have "limited" experience, but if I had to do it over again, I would have preferred to go with a 4:1 low range in my transfer case rather than gear the axles so deep. 4.10's with 35's and 4:1 are probably in the ballpark.
Posted: Wed Dec 21, 2011 12:43 pm
by toyman2
Whats wrong with the D44 that is already in the rear from the factory
Posted: Wed Dec 21, 2011 12:44 pm
by OldGreen
That's right. . .you have a 1986.
NOTHING is wrong with it. A waggy 44 front is a touch wide to match it, so you might just run some small wheel spacers. Maybe 1.5"??
Posted: Wed Dec 21, 2011 12:45 pm
by Grumpy
We put 4:30's with a Cherocar 5 spd and 33's in Steve's Scout, and it seems to work. It feels like it would pull 35's pretty well...Oh, and it is Waggy front and Izuzu rear.