Ground Clearance: D30 on 33's vs a D44 on 35's?

[RaggedOleMan]

My D30 on KM2's/33's has only 10-3/8" clearance (with 28psi) at the pumpkin . At 10psi it's a little less, though I never thought to measure it.

[b][i]Can anyone tell me what clearance you've got on 35's to the front Dana 44?[b][i]

[tobyw]

I'll get you a measurement later this morning, but bear in mind you have asked a very loaded question... The variation in actual diameter of all the 35's out there are the market is staggering, even so between different tread patterns from the same manufacturer (BFG A/T vs. a BFG M/T for example). I know for a fact that my 35" Krawlers are an honest 1.5" taller than my old 35" MTR's...

[Lud]

I'm thinking about measuring my 35's on my Dana 30 now. Never thought to check the clearance.

[oddball]

Also wheel width factors in.

[White trash]

The clearance at street pressure is a moot point. Mix the measurement of the true tire height with whatever you run for trail pressure and you'll have a useful number but it still doesn't mean much.

Should I get measurements for you kids off the yota?

[iaccocca]

My clearance is about one inch lower than that rock in the center of the trail.

[Zach ogle]

The clearance at street pressure is a moot point. Mix the measurement of the true tire height with whatever you run for street pressure and you'll have a useful number but it still doesn't mean much.

Should I get measurements for you kids off the yota?

well since you do got like 2 feet of it hahaha

[RaggedOleMan]

The reason I was asking is that I'm in the "Should I swap out the D35" quandry. So one thing I was wondering is what's the difference in clearance between the D44 & D35.

I think I mentioned the D30 in my original post by mistake...anyway, it's not that the answer to this question will sway me one way or the other, it's just helpful to know, that's all. Thanks for your answers & comments!

~John

[bobracing]

ground clearance isn't the reason to swap out the 35, basically the 35 is very weak and in a bind it will break at the worst time.
I'm guessing you wouldn't notice any difference between a 44 and 35 ground clearance just the extra secure feeling it's not going to snap on you driving down the road.

[White trash]

ground clearance isn't the reason to swap out the 35, basically the 35 is very weak and in a bind it will break at the worst time.
I'm guessing you wouldn't notice any difference between a 44 and 35 ground clearance just the extra secure feeling it's not going to snap on you driving down the road.

Absolutely hit the nail on the head... the 35 is one of the weakest axles from the factory ever made in every possible way. Crap little shafts many of which have c clips, thin little carriers that have a tendancy to break in two or more pieces, a cute ring and pinion that well... Nuff' said about that part and don't forget the paper thin axle tubes... Seriously it is junk and the ground clearance isn't worth thinking about at all.

[Grumpy]

Do a 44 or an 8.8 and quit worrying...


"cute little ring and pinion"

[White trash]

"cute little ring and pinion"

7.5 inches of failure waiting to happen.. 2 wheel drive toyotas and rangers have larger parts. Dana should feel guilty for putting out such garbage.

[Grumpy]

I agree. I just liked the quote

[RaggedOleMan]

Ground clearance isn't my reasoning to keep the D35. I swear I must have read a 100 threads between here, the Jeep Forum, WVJC and not to many folks are a fan of the D35 when it comes to serious wheeling. I get it...

Some of the pro-D35 comments all have to do with upgrading the D35 to a Super D35 (Superior/Evolution Series). There are a few that suggest Alloy, Big Ten, G2 etc... But the Superior Axles (30 spline Evolution Series) don't seem to break according to the threads I've read. No one has posted/indicated that their Superior Evolution Series broke on them. Consequently, on the surface it seems like a reasonable upgrade/solution.

You know, if I'm honest with myself I think I'm just trying to justify keeping/upgrading the 35 because the 44 isn't in my current budget. At the same time I'm so tired of being a ball & chain to others I wheel with because my rig isn't up to the task. It's also geared at 3.07...

I bought an Aussie for the front (D30/stock 27 spline axles), but, haven't got it installed yet. Hopefully in he next couple of weeks.

Swapping out the 35 for a 44 makes good sense to me especially if it's geared at anywhere from 410 to 456, but I'll also have to re-gear or swap out the D30 and bag/sell the Aussie I just bought, replace the new rear CV drive-shaft I have and crap, the costs just keep mounting! QUESTION: Could I regear the front to match the back and NOT have to replace the (27 spline) Aussie?

So maybe I should just install the Aussie in my D30, upgrade those front shafts, bearings and seals first and keep running the open D35 in the rear until I can afford to do it right/swap out, and quit the whining in the mean time, eh? Wish I'd been born rich instead of good lookin'!

[bobracing]

Save your money and put it towards a 8.8 or D44.
As for the super 35, yea, maybe the shafts don't break but it will find the next weak link and be even more destructive.

The D30 will hold up pretty good for most wheeling, unless you like the go pedal a lot. Have a friend that has used one for over 10yrs with 37s, granted it's an older style with tapped bearings and believe it's a little bent now but has lasted well for what it is.

At this point I think you have the right idea, stick the locker in and have fun until you can get something else in the back and regear and upgrade axles at that time.

I don't see you needing a new DS, maybe a little mod to the existing one but not much.

[RaggedOleMan]

Save your money and put it towards a 8.8 or D44.
As for the super 35, yea, maybe the shafts don't break but it will find the next weak link and be even more destructive.

By the way, what IS "the next week" link in the D35 chain in your opinion? Tubes/housings? Ring/Pinion? All of the above?

[White trash]

The shafts usually break first on the turdy five, then the stock carrier busts in a few pieces then the housing with it's 10 gauge tubes and thin cast housing. Save your nickles and toss the axle when it breaks. A good rule of thumb is to never toss more than $250 at a junk axle at any time. If anything you are thinking of doing will cost more than that don't do it.. Save that money for a REAL upgrade.

[White trash]

Double post... woops!

[TJDave]

Wish I'd been born rich instead of good lookin'!

I have the same problem!

[sams88]

Wish I'd been born rich instead of good lookin'!

I have the same problem!

yeah............... seems like there's a lot of us with that issue!

[RaggedOleMan]

Wish I'd been born rich instead of good lookin'!

I have the same problem!

yeah............... seems like there's a lot of us with that issue!

Must have been of epidemic proportions for us baby boomers! $250 max in the D35 a.k.a. "Turdy-five" (cute moniker), eh? Seems reasonable...maybe...

[White trash]

I was born ugly and poor but I know how to score crazy deals so I have never personally suffered from the dreaded turdy five disease...

[RaggedOleMan]

I was born ugly and poor but I know how to score crazy deals so I have never personally suffered from the dreaded turdy five disease...

Score crazy deals, eh? So, might you share your secret or carry it to that ugly, poor grave of yours?

[Grumpy]

To know Trashy is to be...What?

[RaggedOleMan]

To know Trashy is to be...What?

Trashed? By the way Grumpy I really like and agree with your signature/naps!