PEAK PUTTERS

hey guys,

looking into getting a locker for my 8.8 not sure in the difference between them, looking to spend between 3-4 hundred and had my eye on the detroit style or the spartan. any input or suggestions would be helpful! thanks.

DefiantSD wrote:hey guys,

looking into getting a locker for my 8.8 not sure in the difference between them, looking to spend between 3-4 hundred and had my eye on the detroit style or the spartan. any input or suggestions would be helpful! thanks.

I have little knowledge of the lockers other than this, isn't the 8.8 a Ford product? Detroit should work well from what I hear although a number of folks on the various site claim that selectables are premium (electric/air) out there.

When I get there I'm thinking electric, but who knows what I'll be buying for at the time...

Just wanna say, it's very brave to ask for advice here... The good news is you'll get lots from guys you can look in the face and at their rigs here as opposed to just pics like some of the other forums... Good luck brother!

I have a Detroit in the rear of the Comanche and haven't had any issues with it, been in there probably 12 years now. Also have an ARB in the front and never a problem, but a selectable locker isn't really necessary for the rear. I also have a 8.8 with a Detroit in the rear of my Cherokee project... I haven't ran it yet but the rear end was ran for years in another Cherokee.

But a Detroit is not a drop in lunchbox style locker like the Spartan or LockRite, at least I don't think Detroit makes a drop in locker but I could be wrong. The downside with the lunchbox style locker is you re-use the stock carrier which can be a weak point, but usually fine unless going with big tires. I think Jimmy put a Spartan in his Cherokee.

thanks for the info, it was very helpful. as far as the install goes i THINK i should be able to run through it with little to no problems, I was just wondering if i reuse the old ring and pinion or have to get new ones?

Also I brought some 1/4 inch steel home from work today, was gonna try and play around with relocating the rear axle, and extend it all the way back. My main problem with that is that it looks like i will need to mount a full cell and eleminate my old tank, that and im not sure if i can have my tom woods 2 piece drive shaft lengthed?

im pulling my jeep apart this weekend, and gonna see what happens. i will post pick and info on it when i start.

I appreciate all the info and ideas!

also had fun last weekend, its been to long since ive been wheeling and am looking forward to uping the anti.

You can certainly have you drive shaft lengthened (retubed) by a driveline shop. There are a couple of companies (sadly, I can't remember) that make special gas tanks for stretched YJs or you could go with an RCI fuel cell behind the seat. Google something like YJ stretch kit. . .

As far as the locker, I would suggest a full case detroit or Grizzly locker in the rear if you have the coin. If not, a spartan is a good choice and they are super easy to install. You don't need to replace the ring and pinion, but you will have to re-set them up if you do any full case locker. Spartan, etc. doesn't require that of course.

You don't need to replace the ring and pinion. Just check the back-lash before you tear it down and make sure it has the same back-lash when you install the new carrier.
I run a spool in the rear and an arb in the front but my rig doesn't see much street use. I personally like the idea of having selectable lockers on both ends and will eventually set mine up with an arb in the rear also.

hmm im gonna have to ask my dad where he got the drive shaft for his dodge dart lenghtened, see what its gonna cost.

yeah im not worried about the backlash or anything i installed the 4:11 i have, just wasnt sure if it would fit the locker.

this project is starting to sound like a mission now, haha my jeep is no longer a daily driver but it would be nice to put a arb in both but i just dont see the benefit to it? so from what it sounds like a arb is my best bet for the front,

the other problem im running into is my dana 30 i have never had a problem with it but i dont wana go out and destroy it wheeling far from home. I thought about upgrades but cant find a cheap solution for this and keep me bolt pattern and lenght with out swapping to a fullwidth axle?

haha sorry for the 100 questions, im chewing off more than i can bite. But i have the urge to conquer! and not be conquered like the dana 35 i blew into pieces.

Full width is nice most of the time but can really suck others. If I was you I'd aim at either a waggy 44 front or F150 44. The Ford is wider at 65" if I recall correctly so its a nice tradeoff.

Swapping a set of xj leafs in backwards will kick the axle back 3" all on their own with nothing else changed. Lots of options, just need to evaluate what you want in the end and not get caught up in the bigger, badder, stronger stupidity.

Trashypoo is right on the money.

Full width is nice most of the time but can really suck others. If I was you I'd aim at either a waggy 44 front or F150 44. The Ford is wider at 65" if I recall correctly so its a nice tradeoff.

Swapping a set of xj leafs in backwards will kick the axle back 3" all on their own with nothing else changed. Lots of options, just need to evaluate what you want in the end and not get caught up in the bigger, badder, stronger stupidity.

yeah the front axle ill leave untill i break it or finish up the rear. but its nice to know what fits.

and swapping the xj's leafs in backwards ive never herd of this. are you talking about stock xj springs? and by saying reverse do you mean soa? cuz im trying to stay from soa. 3' is good but im figuring if i do it im gonna get it so i can mount it to the read pushing it back 6-8' all the way. The rear axle is a ford 8.8 im gonna get a detroit locker and just wana push it back as far as i can. if i need to get a fuel cell thats fine, just finding the best cheap option.

But i will say you got my brain thinking!

DefiantSD wrote:

Full width is nice most of the time but can really suck others. If I was you I'd aim at either a waggy 44 front or F150 44. The Ford is wider at 65" if I recall correctly so its a nice tradeoff.

Swapping a set of xj leafs in backwards will kick the axle back 3" all on their own with nothing else changed. Lots of options, just need to evaluate what you want in the end and not get caught up in the bigger, badder, stronger stupidity.

yeah the front axle ill leave untill i break it or finish up the rear. but its nice to know what fits.

and swapping the xj's leafs in backwards ive never herd of this. are you talking about stock xj springs? and by saying reverse do you mean soa? cuz im trying to stay from soa. 3' is good but im figuring if i do it im gonna get it so i can mount it to the read pushing it back 6-8' all the way. The rear axle is a ford 8.8 im gonna get a detroit locker and just wana push it back as far as i can. if i need to get a fuel cell thats fine, just finding the best cheap option.

But i will say you got my brain thinking!

XJ leafs have the axle centering pin offset, closer to the front of the spring. So if you install them reverse (rear end toward the front), it will locate your axle closer to the rear.

If it were me, I would just go with a Spartan in the rear and save the time and dough for something else. Unless you have the coin, then go all out with a select-able locker.

The Dana 30 fronts must not be that bad. I am still trying to break mine, and it still has the smaller u-joints. I run 33's and 4:88's.

You can get your drive-line lengthen and balanced a Six-States in Pasco. It's about $40 to get is balanced but well worth it.

It's my opinion (for what that is worth) save your coin up until you can do selectable lockers of some sort. It's worth having the option in the long run as well as being cheaper if you do it right the first time. Good deals pop up from time to time on the 4x4 sites as guys get caught up in the axel upgrade contest.

I vote selectable lockers or at least a selectable locker in the front for tight turns.

I run an ARB on my Dana 30 with 35's and 4.56s but I have chromoly shafts and upgraded u joints. I also always bring my stock front shafts that are all ready to go if I break shafts or ujoints up front.

I like my ARBs (after lots of time spent getting them working right) but I'll bet the cable and electronic lockers have come a long way so it would be worth looking at those too.

For simplicity a Detroit would be the way to go.

hmm i appreciate all the feed back and info. its been very helpful.

For now im just gonna get a locker for the 8.8 i have been looking at the eaton or detroit. still gonna look around tho.

and then i wana get rid of my 33's and put on 35. so im looking for larger springs. n shocks. Then just gonna replace my tie rods, Ujoints up front cuz there all pretty worn.

I have 4' springs right now and think the 35's would be tight, would like to get some 6' springs but cant seem to find any.

oh on a side note, I got my DIY tube fenders today and they sent the wrong ones so im selling this pair, and there sending me the correct ones. so I paid 250$ would like to get 150$ for them. there for a yj not sure if theyll fit anything else.

Do NOT go up in height! 4" is more than enough suspension lift just cut the tub and raise your fenders up into the hood to retain some compression travel. 35's are easy to fit if you are willing to do the work. Don't do a body and drivetrain lift all that does is raise your center of gravity. Some guys do it to get a slightly better rear driveline angle but with your stretch it is a worthless modification that will only hurt performance.