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Need Input From the TJ Guys

Posted: Mon Mar 10, 2014 4:26 pm
by tobyw
Two issues that need addressed ASAP:

1.) OEM headlights SUCK. What is the hot ticket? For the record, I am NOT interested in anything with blue tint or that is spelled with the letters L, E, or D.

2.) There is a 'click' noise from the passenger dash area. It's not the blower fan (although that does have a slight whirr/hum to it that indicates some grime buildup on the blades that needs tidied up), but it sounds a lot like a relay hitting. It only happens when the A/C compressor is in use, such as the defrost mode, but it's NOT the click from the compressor itself engaging - it is definitely something in the dash, perhaps just behind the glovebox? Seems to happen every few seconds, no real rhythm though...

Posted: Mon Mar 10, 2014 4:42 pm
by iaccocca
I have IPF H4 inserts with Fat boy bulbs (not the blue ones.) I am half night blind and the factory lighting brought the mega suck, especially with any moisture in the air. I am really pleased with these. No real issues, but the hibeams are aimed a bit high for street use... street signs are blinding, but, hey, no signs on the trail.

Posted: Mon Mar 10, 2014 4:43 pm
by iaccocca
Click from passenger side area? Your Jeep is quieter than mine. :lol:

Posted: Mon Mar 10, 2014 6:06 pm
by TJDave
I also have had aftermarket headlight housings with replaceable bulbs since I've had the Jeep. One bulb recently fried and I replaced both with Silverstar bulbs. Even better.

The clicking? Mine clicks. AC compressor clicks on and off at every selection except "off".
I can hear the fuel pump clicking too. But that is more from the rear.

Posted: Mon Mar 10, 2014 9:46 pm
by Lud
I'd go with silverstars or the h4s. For the clicking noise does it click when you Chang the selector from vent to floor or to defrost? Also just a tidbit the actuator for the vent is controlled by a vacuum line that runs along the firewall.

Posted: Mon Mar 10, 2014 9:48 pm
by 79chevy39.5's
You sure it's not the ac compressor relay cycling?

Posted: Tue Mar 11, 2014 3:01 am
by White trash
IPF or Hella H4 housings have a sharp cutoff on low beam so use either housing with either 35 watt hid ignitors and bulbs under 5k or a 55 watt setup under 6k will be white and not blind oncoming traffic. My 6k 55 watt setup has a very slight blue tint to others but its white to the driver.

Posted: Tue Mar 11, 2014 9:13 am
by tobyw
Is there a local vendor for these housings and/or bulbs or do I need to fire up the Amazons?

As for the click, it easily could be an AC relay, IF that relay exists inside the cabin? I'm used to hearing an AC pressure switch hit under the hood, and this is NOT that... It is coming from behind the glove box, inside the Jeep.

And yes, with the hard top on it is actually freaky quiet inside... :?

Posted: Tue Mar 11, 2014 9:22 am
by White trash
Nobody local carries good H4 housings so you'll have to go online for those. DDMtuning.com has agreat selection of HID headlights and led bulbs but their H4 housings are terrible. You can get a 55 watt 6k setup with hi and low beams ready to plug and play for $60

Posted: Tue Mar 11, 2014 9:59 am
by 79chevy39.5's
I got my hids through work (I know not tj) but my 98 and 01 dodges headlights were no good, and when cruising out Friday nights to get to camp I could hardly see anything got a hi/low hid kit from work and all my trucks will have this (not that im going to get anything else ever).

pretty sure mine are 8k as they are slightly blue when looking at them but from driver seat its white

Posted: Tue Mar 11, 2014 10:11 am
by OldGreen
You want 4800K

the end.

Posted: Tue Mar 11, 2014 10:28 am
by Lurch
I picked up a nice set of headlights with h4s at the swap meet. Eventually going to convert to HIDs.

Posted: Tue Mar 11, 2014 12:01 pm
by White trash
OldGreen wrote:You want 4800K

the end.


If they're only 35 watt I agree. If stepping up to 55 watt 6k is the limit unless you want blue. My headlights are very light blue. I pulled them out because the housings are pure crap for HID'S and they scatter the light badly. Thats why I only recomend IPF, Hella or if you can find them Cibie housings due to their superior light control.

I haven't found a factory non projector housing that didnt scatter the light badly and blind oncoming traffic. Chevy, honda and dodge are the worst rigs to put HID's in unless you just don't care about blinding those hurtling down the road at you. :lol:

Posted: Tue Mar 11, 2014 6:31 pm
by Jafo
Toby, if I remember right, I think fuses/relays are also located behind the glove box. Squeeze the two sides together if I remember right and drop the glovebox out.

Posted: Thu Mar 13, 2014 10:17 am
by mattawajeep
I've got IPF H4 housings in my TJ with 55 watt 4300k HID bulbs. I like the 4300k's much better than the 5000k I used to use. Light on the road seems to be more natural.

I put some 7" round H4 Hella E-code housings into my 67 mustang, and the difference between the IPF's are huge. The IPF's do a much better job of focusing the light, where the Hellas have too much scatter.

Just make sure you aim them correctly, and then actually test to see if they're not blinding anyone. Have someone else drive the jeep and then get in another car and check it out. I've got a lot of miles on the road at night with mine, and I don't blind anybody.

I'd recommend IPF housings and a 55 watt Hi-Low H4 kit from DDM tuning.

If you can order the kit without the relay harness, I have a brand new one you can have. Should plug right into the DDM harness. They accidentally sent me two last time I ordered something and they didn't want it back.

Posted: Thu Mar 13, 2014 10:37 am
by OldGreen
mattawajeep wrote:I've got IPF H4 housings in my TJ with 55 watt 4300k HID bulbs. I like the 4300k's much better than the 5000k I used to use. Light on the road seems to be more natural.

I put some 7" round H4 Hella E-code housings into my 67 mustang, and the difference between the IPF's are huge. The IPF's do a much better job of focusing the light, where the Hellas have too much scatter.

Just make sure you aim them correctly, and then actually test to see if they're not blinding anyone. Have someone else drive the jeep and then get in another car and check it out. I've got a lot of miles on the road at night with mine, and I don't blind anybody.

I'd recommend IPF housings and a 55 watt Hi-Low H4 kit from DDM tuning.

If you can order the kit without the relay harness, I have a brand new one you can have. Should plug right into the DDM harness. They accidentally sent me two last time I ordered something and they didn't want it back.


If you go 55W, you must use a relay harness. Ask me how I know . . .(WJ factory wires got cooked).

Posted: Thu Mar 13, 2014 12:06 pm
by tobyw
Thanks for all the input guys... I'll do some price shopping and then ask the boss how much I can have :oops:

Dale - I will take you up on that harness, let me know the next time you're headed down this way and we'll meet up or something along those lines :D

Posted: Thu Mar 13, 2014 4:50 pm
by White trash
OldGreen wrote:
If you go 55W, you must use a relay harness. Ask me how I know . . .(WJ factory wires got cooked).



DDM harnesses are all weather pack connectors with a built in relay setup. They are value priced but very good quality with all the right features. Not some ebay turd. :D

Posted: Thu Mar 13, 2014 4:56 pm
by OldGreen
I got my HID set up from DDM, but it didn't come with the harness. That must not be for every single installation. . .

What a GREAT option.

Posted: Fri Mar 14, 2014 6:40 am
by Wrench
Your typical "55w" HID ballast (not the actual wattage rating) will momentarily spike to around 15 amps on startup, but level off to under 4 amps running. A 55w H4 bulb will pull 5 amps constant. HID's are roughly 20% less amp draw running than Halogen's. These ratings are PER BULB.

14 gauge wire is good for 15 amps for automotive use. Every circuit in an auto has circuit protection (fuse or circuit breaker) that is amp-rated to the wire gauge of the circuit. You should never fry wires without the circuit protection blowing first, unless the auto maker screwed up.

I have a wiring/gauge chart if anyone needs a reference for other amp ratings.

I also have a DC amperage clamp meter to test your setup of you need.

Posted: Sat Mar 15, 2014 3:50 pm
by TJDave
So I took the TJ to the store today. The hard top that had not previously been on for three years since this winter was still on...Nice and quiet....for about another hour. Curiosity got me, so I cruised the backroads slow enough for the tires not to howl. Guess what? Click click every so often. Coming from right behind the glovebox. I guess I never noticed it before, or couldn't hear it over all the other neat Jeep noises it makes.
Maybe it's a normal 03 and up TJ thing. Everything is working as it should.

Posted: Sat Mar 15, 2014 5:55 pm
by Lud
Mine doesn't do it.

Posted: Sat Mar 15, 2014 6:13 pm
by TJDave
Lud wrote:Mine doesn't do it.


Well, that blows my "maybe it's normal" theory right out of the water! :lol:

Posted: Sun Mar 16, 2014 6:19 am
by tobyw
Dave - thanks a million for giving it a shot, that's AWESOME! I mean, it's not necessarily awesome that yours does it too, but it's awesome that you took the time to see if it does :lol: And like you said, everything functions normally, it's just an added noise. But, also just like yours, can't hear it with the hard top removed, so :?

Posted: Sun Mar 16, 2014 6:19 am
by scumby
i think there is only one relay behind the glove box above the kick panel. pull it out and see what stops working. maybe the noise will go away, if not you at least know that's not the problem.