shackles

[CopenhagenCowboy]

Ok at the moment my rear shackle angle it at about 100 degree angle shackle to spring. Maybe a little more. I want to relocate the rear shackle mount about 4 inches towards the front to change my angle to under 90 degrees. Any thoughts? Pros cons? And would it be bed to weld the bracket rather than drill two holes for bolts, cut an access hole and weld nuts inside? I would prefer to just weld em but I'm no expert. I'm plannin on doin it this week, will this loosen up my suspension any? Goin from an obtuse to and acute angle? And do you think it would work or would it force my shackle up to the frame? I know it will drop my a$$ end a bit which its good. Also I want to break open my front spring packs and pull out one non main leaf, there are 5 leafs on each of the front. Thanks guys

[bobracing]

You would probably be better off moving the front mount back a couple of inches, rather than moving the shackle. This will move you wheel base back to were it should be and keep the tire out of the front wheel well corner.

Might also want to make a cardboard template shackle and start looking at how far it actually needs to move for the angle you want, 4" seems like a LOT. I'm going to guess 1-2" it will be more than enough.

[tobyw]

Shackle angle is debated pretty heavily, but the general consensus is a 45* angle (from vertical) at ride height... Moving your mount 4", as Bobracing mentioned, is likely at least 2x too far to get what you're after. However, before you start moving mounts, you mentioned you want the rear to drop a little - why not remove a leaf or two and see what happens? Your spring pack should sit flatter, effectively increasing the eye-to-eye length at ride height, and improving your shackle angle. Might be enough, might not, but it's free and relatively easy. And it will definetly "loosen up" your ride. And in my opion, there is nothing wrong with welding the mounts in place if you determine they need a new home.

[CopenhagenCowboy]

I thought that if I moved the rear mount forward it wouldn't chanch the wheel base, just change the shackle angle. With the front mount still connected it shouldn't move the axle at all right? Ill have to take pictures and put em up. But I like the idea about movin the fron ones, but that would put my tires further back in my wells, towards the back corner wouldn't it?

[bobracing]

.....But I like the idea about movin the fron ones, but that would put my tires further back in my wells, towards the back corner wouldn't it?

Yes, back to where they should be. The more arc a spring has the shorter eye to eye it is, this gives you a shorter wheel base, ever wonder why the rear wheel looks so far forward in the rear wheel well? It also move farther back when flat too so trimming the rear fender might be needed.

Pulling springs works, OK, I personally haven't had much luck with it but could just be the springs I have. If you pull to many axle wrap becomes a major problem.

[CopenhagenCowboy]

The rear packs only have 4 leafs. Would it be safe to take any out?

[CopenhagenCowboy]

Is axle wrap when your axle rolls and lifts the rear up a bit when you accelerate?

[OldGreen]

Moving the shackle mounts and or spring hangars will effectively make it so you are no longer able to use stock length springs unless you move them back. . .sounds like a bi#$$h to me. . .
If you are going to all that trouble, a new and/or hybrid leaf pack sounds like a good idea. For what its worth. . .your shackle angle sucks BAD.

Axle wrap is when the pinion angle changes because of torque applied by the driveshaft. It causes wheel hop and broken crap. . . .BAD. . .however, it is VERY uncommon on spring under rigs with super stiff springs. It is most common on spring over rigs with soft springs.

You "could" flip your shackle hangars around the other way, no? Use the same bolt holes? I'm just going from memory.

What James is talking about is that because of your uberlift/archtastic springs, your wheelbase has been SHORTENED from stock a little bit. . .

The counterpoint is that when the axle actually moves up and down, it is moving in the stock arc. . .it just starts out way to frickin' high. . .so, if you move the front hangars back, you may end up needing to clearance your gas tank or the rear of your rear quarter panels and/or do some driveline work. . .depending on how much you move it and where your bumpstops are set. . .

[CopenhagenCowboy]

Sounds like a lot of work. I can't flip the hangars around bc that would make it worse. Ogles truck does that axle wrap thing. Well sounds like a lot of mess. Ill stick to breakin the packs open first

[OldGreen]

you also may be able to send your springs somewhere to have them re-arched. Deaver does that for us for the race truck and it isn't too expensive. CJ springs are cheap though. . .just find some with less arch.

[White trash]

First off shorten the shackles, they are long enough that they are part of the cause of the bad angle but they were a necessary band aid due to those springs being made WRONG in the first place. They are built too short for their arch simple as that.


Shorten them up an inch or two then slide the front of the rear spring mounts back, tack them in place and set the rig down on it to see where things are at. Keep repeating it till you have them where the shackle is happy and the axle still clears the gas tank.

[OldGreen]

To add to what trashy says and to answer your original question:

It is fine to weld the shackle hangars to the frame. . .mine have been that way ever since I stripped out the nutcerts about 5 or 6 years ago.

[CopenhagenCowboy]

Can't move the front mount on the rear springs back at all, they are on the last bit of flat frame. But on a posative note I slid the tranny into place last night and got most of the bolts in, I'm missing a couple cause my orgonization consists of taking off the bolts and putting them next to me. Then three days later forgetting where they go or where they are. Lol got all new u joints non greasable napa gold. Oohh and I also wirebrushed as much dirt and grease as I could off the tcase and tranny so she looks all purdy. Driveshafts go on today with 8 new strap kits for the yokes, why they come with one per kit ill never know. Should be done today super excited

[mattawajeep]

I like to put my bolts in a ziploc bag, and I take pictures of stuff before I take it apart.

But that's only because I have too many bolts without a home already.

[bobracing]

Can't move the front mount on the rear springs back at all, they are on the last bit of flat frame.

This could a good thing, if you move the mount onto the curved part of the fame this moves it up lowering the Jeep.

For example, move the mount back and while doing that it move the mount up 1" and take an 1" out of the shackle, you have lowered the Jeep rear 1". Doesn't your Jeep have the stink bug stance and need to be lowered anyways?

[Roman]

it's tall, but I wouldn't say it NEEDS to be lowered. Moving shackle mounts is a TON of work for a rig that's more bolt on compatible than a 2nd gen Toyota!

Let's not steer this kid into hacking up his jeep because he bought the worst springs on the face of the earth!

[White trash]

A bit longer rear spring would solve this whole issue. If I'm not mistaken James ended up with the yj lift springs I got from Jose. Even just the main and second leaf swapped in would be longer than whats in there now. Either that or just swapping some waggy fronts out back to get the added length without moving the mounts.

[Roman]

CJ7 rears are the same length as YJ's. Those are just arched too much. When they make lifted leaves no one makes the overall length longer than stock. But Trash, I believe you are correct on that last one, Waggy main leaves would give him a 2" longer main leaf, a way better shackle angle and lower the back end all in one!

[White trash]

What I'm getting at on the yj leafs is those ones weren't made out of stock length springs then overarched to make them too short eye to eye. They started life longer so even arched for lift they kept their correct eye to eye length.

[CopenhagenCowboy]

Thank you ryan, and jose. I just replaced my starter with a shiny new one so my baby should be at my house in running condition today. Next step is rebuilding my steering box so it doesn't leak anymore. If I replace the rear springs or just the main i is it gonna give my jeep a squat? Cause that would piss me off. Lol

[OldGreen]

Some will argue. . .but don't rebuild the steering box, just get a new(to you) one from the yard. CJ, Wagoneer, XJ, YJ, etc. etc. etc.

The Waggy boxes are a little slow. I use one from an XJ and it seems to work just fine. Some use 3 bolts and some use 4, but the holes are in the same spots.

[CopenhagenCowboy]

What happens if I buy one from the yard and it leaks too? Then im back where I started. Lol what's the advantage to getting one from a yard to rebuilding? Cj boxes suck or something?

[Roman]

. . . yj leafs weren't made out of stock length springs then overarched to make them too short eye to eye. They started life longer so even arched for lift they kept their correct eye to eye length.

No go there Trashy! Those RE leaves have the same eye to eye length when measured along the leaf . . . With 33's the tire was less than an inch from the front flare at ride height, at full stuff it would bind on the rear of the wheel opening so hard it would stall the motor!

[CopenhagenCowboy]

Can someone help me hook ujp my heater?

[CopenhagenCowboy]

With the carburator I have installed (rochester) there's no fuel return line, but with the electric fuel pump it sometimes causes the fuel to overflow. What can I do to prevent this? It also tends to flood out when I go slow like through a big parkinglot for too long. I'm afraid when its idling for a long time it would do the same thing. I don't want my jeep to burn down. Any ideas? And yes I know a fire extinguisher is a good thing to have